My Vegan Guide to Western Thailand: Kanchanaburi, Ethically Delicious (2025)
- Guy Braverman
- Sep 18
- 9 min read
I’ve been traveling to Kanchanaburi for decades, and it still surprises me on every visit—emerald waterfalls tangled in rainforest, a riverside town that slows your pulse, and historical sites that deserve our full attention. Located just 140km from Bangkok, Kanchanaburi is a great place to visit for those looking for a quick trip to escape the concrete walls of Bangkok. This time I set out to update what I know, eat well as a vegan, and travel responsibly. Below is how I’d plan it today: what’s open, what’s worth your time, and how to avoid the common pitfalls, My vegan guide to Western Thailand.
How I travel here (in a nutshell)
If you’re new here: I run Vegan Gourmet Travel. My trips lean gourmet and ethical—plant‑based meals, small groups, and experiences that respect animals, people, and place. The notes below come from my recent visit plus current checks, so you can trust the details and focus on enjoying the journey.
Getting there & around (what worked for me)
· By train: The scenic ‘Death Railway’ line from Bangkok’s Thonburi station goes to Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok. I time one leg to pass the Krasae/Wang Pho cliff section for those river views. Schedules change—verify close to travel.
· By bus/van: Frequent services link Bangkok (Sai Tai Mai) with Kanchanaburi town.
· By car: Renting in Bangkok is straightforward; it’s roughly a two‑and‑a‑half‑hour drive to town depending on traffic.
· On the river: Many stays are on the Khwae (Kwai) Yai. Long‑tail boats are fun at sunset—agree the price first and watch your wake near floating hotels.
· On two wheels: Cycling is a great way to explore the riverside lanes; guesthouses rent bikes. Scooter rentals are common in town and usually cost 200–300 THB/day—bring sun and bug protection and plenty of water.
When to go, staying safe
Kanchanaburi is a year‑round destination. The cooler dry months (November–February) are popular for hiking; the hot season (March–May) can be intense midday; the rainy season (May–October) paints the jungle bright green and brings short, heavy showers. Check the forecast the day before waterfall hikes and listen to rangers—slippery rock and fast runoff aren’t worth a risky photo.
Why remembrance matters here
Kanchanaburi’s story is inseparable from the Thai–Burma Railway (often called the Death Railway), built in 1942–43 under Japanese occupation. Allied prisoners of war and tens of thousands of Asian civilian laborers were forced to work in brutal conditions; many died. Visiting the museums, the cemeteries, and Hellfire Pass is moving. Dress modestly, keep voices low, and give the sites the time they deserve.
What to see & do (my picks, in a practical order)
Huay Mae Khamin Waterfall (all‑day, quieter than Erawan)
Set inside Srinakarin Dam National Park, Huay Mae Khamin is the province’s crown jewel for many locals—seven tiers of clear, emerald pools suitable for a refreshing dip, and jungle soundtrack. It’s about 110 km from town (~2 hours by car; a little longer by scooter), and that distance keeps crowds thinner. Due to its remote location, it is less frequented by foreign tourists, but a popular spot for young Thais and families for a day trip or even a camping weekend adventure. The parking lot lies between tiers 4 and 5: hike down for 1–4 and up for 5–7. If you do the full up‑and‑down hike, expect close to 4 km with lots of stairs but easy trails. Hours are typically 06:00–17:00 with last entry around 16:00. Foreign adult tickets are 300 THB; Thai adult 60 THB. Plan a full day and pack snacks. 📌 Huay Mae Khamin Waterfall
Erawan National Park (arrive early, swim smart)
Erawan’s seven limestone tiers are the headline act—turquoise pools, little fish, and a lively crowd by late morning. I aim for opening time to enjoy the lower levels, then hike steadily upward. Expect roots, rocks, and slower going near the top. From the parking area to tier 7 is about 2 km one way; levels 1–4 are easy on paved paths, 5–7 feel more intermediate. Erawan sits ~65 km from town (~1 hour by car; up to 1½ by scooter).
The park generally runs 08:00–16:30 with last entry at 15:30. Foreign adult ticket ~300 THB; Thai adult 60 THB. Electric carts serve the lower section. Swimming is allowed in designated areas—follow ranger guidance and respect any red‑flag closures in rainy season. Pack bug spray and proper footwear. If you’re using the public bus back to town, leave a time buffer to descend and reach the gate. The last buses go mid‑to‑late afternoon. 📌 Erawan Falls
Tham Phra That (Phra That Cave)
If you finish Erawan early, take the short 8 km drive to Phra That Cave, one of many mountain caves tucked away in the thick rainforest of Kanchanaburi province. Your Erawan ticket covers entry here as well. It’s a roughly 30‑minute uphill walk to the cave mouth, and inside runs about 200 meters with stalactites and stalagmites. Ask for a guide before entering and allow ~2 hours round trip. A handheld flashlight would be nice to have for the cave. Typical hours are 08:00–16:00; arrive before 15:00 for last entry. 📌 Tham Phra That
Srinagarindra Dam (sunset stop)
Close to Erawan and Phra That Cave, the dam is a peaceful place to catch sunset over the reservoir. Named after Princess Srinagarindra, the grandmother of Thailand’s current king, the dam’s construction was completed in 1980 with the aim to regulate river flow and hydroelectric power generation.Entry is free, with a small café and restrooms at the car park. If you stay for sunset, remember the first stretch back to town is a winding, dark road—drive carefully. 📌 Srinagarindra Dam
The Bridge over the River Khwae (Kwai) & the cliff railway
The iconic steel bridge spans the Khwae Yai (Upper Mae Klong). Trains cross slowly through the day, and you can walk the pedestrian plates between services. For the most photogenic stretch, head to Tham Krasae (Wang Pho) where the track clings to a teak trestle above the river. Mid‑morning light is kind. 📌 River Kwai Bridge
Thailand–Burma Railway Centre (Death Railway Museum)
Opposite Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, this private museum is air‑conditioned, rich with primary sources, and well curated. Provides a clear overview before you head to Hellfire Pass. I allow 1–2 hours for the visit. Posted hours are 09:00–17:00 and adult admission 160 THB—confirm on arrival. 📌 Death Railway Museum and Research Centre
Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre & Memorial Walking Trail
Run by Australia’s Department of Veterans’ Affairs, this is the most powerful historical site in the area. The museum gives essential context, and the walking trail leads into the hand‑cut pass. There are stairs, so bring water and good shoes. Hours are 09:00–16:00, with periodic maintenance closures. Free entry. 📌 Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre
War cemeteries
📌 Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and 📌 Chungkai War Cemetery are immaculately kept places of remembrance, maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Many visitors come to trace family names. Please dress modestly and give others space.
Temples I liked
Thailand is home to over 44,000 Buddhist temples, and Kanchanaburi province has its fair share.
· 📌 Wat Tham Khao Pun: sunrise vantage with a sweeping view over the River Kwai and the track running alongside.
· 📌 Wat Ban Tham: a mountaintop cave temple, and short, steep hike to a golden pagoda with panoramas over town and river.
· 📌 Wat Tham Suea: a striking complex of towers and pagodas with an 18‑meter Buddha dominating the ridge.
· 📌 Wat Thaworn Wararam - Chùa Khánh Thọ: a Vietnamese‑style temple that’s atmospheric in late afternoon light.
· 📌 Prasat Mueang Sing Historical Park: Khmer‑era ruins in a leafy riverside setting—quiet, spacious, and great for an unhurried wander.
Vegan Kanchanaburi: how I ate well
Kanchanaburi isn’t as straightforward for vegans as Bangkok, Chiangmai, Pattaya, Phuket, or Kho Samui—that’s part of its charm. Most dedicated options cluster in town, and many Jae (strict vegetarian) places close early afternoon and rest on Sundays. When I venture beyond town, I bring fruit and simple snacks just in case.
Places I tried this trip:
· 📌 On’s Thai-Issan Vegan: Despite the name, it’s vegetarian and uses eggs in some dishes. Specify no egg and skip clear soups with soft tofu (that style is egg‑based). It’s central on River Kwai Road and a reliable dinner spot—open daily 10:00–21:00. Recipes skew to a Western palate but are still tasty; they also run a popular cooking class.
· 📌 Metta Kitchen Vegetarian Food: A local Jae place—authentic Thai, very inexpensive. A generous rice plate with two choices was 30 THB (Sept 2025). Best to go morning or lunchtime. English is minimal, but pointing works; the the team is friendly. They often have fresh vegan snacks and desserts.
· 📌 Jasmine by Mae Taew: Clean, simple Jae spot with daily premade trays and made‑to‑order noodle soup. Open daily except Sunday, usually 06:00–14:00. Portions are small and prices friendly; you’ll also find pre‑cut seasonal fruit and snacks.
Market strategy:
· Look for the yellow “เจ” sign.
· Useful Thai:
“อาหารเจ” (aa‑hăan jae – vegan/strict vegetarian);
“ไม่ใส่น้ำปลา” (no fish sauce);
“ไม่ใส่ซอสหอยนางรม” (no oyster sauce);
“ไม่ใส่ไข่ / ไม่ใส่นม” (no egg / no milk).
Nightlife (where I wandered after dark)
Kanchanaburi offers lively nightlife. Places tend to be livelier and busier during high season (November-February), but even in rainy season you’ll find plenty of bars, clubs and markets to enjoy. River Kwai Road is where most foreign tourists visiting Kanchanaburi tend to stay, and that’s where most of the bars and restaurants catering to foreigners are concentrated. There are a few live music venues down the road, a few hostess bars and plenty of restaurants, guest houses, hotels and resorts.
· 📌 JJ Night Market Kanchanaburi: Nightly street‑food market after 17:00. Vegan options exist but may require a little investigation and negotiation.
· 📌 World War II bridge project market (weekends only): Around the River Kwai Bridge on Saturday/Sunday evenings—small bars, snacks, and views.
· 📌 Glitzy Club: The town’s current nightclub—about a 20‑minute walk from River Kwai Road. Young, loud, and fun; cash only.
About elephant tourism (my stance)
Kanchanaburi has big‑name venues like ElephantsWorld and Elephant Haven that say they don’t offer riding. Even so, some places still promote close contact or bathing, which major welfare groups now discourage. I choose observation‑only experiences—no touching, feeding, or bathing—and look for transparency around veterinary care and space for natural behaviors.
Practical notes that helped
· Hydration & heat: I carry at least 2 L for Erawan or Huay Mae Khamin and add fruit/salty snacks.
· Wildlife: Macaques are bold—avoid eating on the trail or you may lose your snack.
· Respect: At memorials, cemeteries and temples, cover shoulders/knees where possible and keep voices low.
· Sunscreen: Avoid oxybenzone and octinoxate; don’t feed fish or wildlife; pack your trash out.
· Connectivity & cash: ATMs/7‑Elevens are common; bring cash for park fees, buses, and markets. Local SIMs are sold at 7‑Eleven.
Plan your vegan Kanchanaburi journey - A Vegan guide to Thailand
If you’d like me to line up the logistics, confirm schedules, and secure the best plant‑based meals, reach out at guybraverman@vegangourmettravel.com I’ll tailor a pace that fits—history, waterfalls, markets, and memorable dining.
Key sources I checked for this trip (2024–2025)
· Tourism Authority of Thailand – Erawan National Park info (hours/fees): https://www.tourismthailand.org/Attraction/erawan-national-park
· Department of Veterans’ Affairs, Australia – Hellfire Pass: https://www.dva.gov.au/recognition-and-commemoration/education-resources/interpretive-centres-and-education/hellfire-pass-interpretive-centre-thailand
· Thailand–Burma Railway Centre – Visitor info: https://tbrconline.com/visitor.htm
· Seat61 – Bangkok–Kanchanaburi by train: https://www.seat61.com/bridge-on-the-river-kwai.htm
· Rome2Rio – Kanchanaburi ↔ Erawan buses: https://www.rome2rio.com/s/Kanchanaburi/Erawan-National-Park
· Thaiest – Kanchanaburi→Erawan times (July 2025): https://thaiest.com/thailand/kanchanaburi/bus-to-erawan
· CWGC – Kanchanaburi War Cemetery: https://www.cwgc.org/visit-us/find-cemeteries-memorials/cemetery-details/2017101/kanchanaburi-memorial/
· Australian War Memorial – Thai–Burma Railway: https://www.awm.gov.au/articles/encyclopedia/burma_thailand_railway
· National Museum of Australia – Thai–Burma Railway: https://www.nma.gov.au/defining-moments/resources/burma-thailand-railway
· World Animal Protection – elephant bathing: https://www.worldanimalprotection.org.nz/news/cruelty-involved-elephant-bathing/
· ABTA – Global Welfare Guidance (2019): https://www.abta.com/sites/default/files/media/document/uploads/Global%20Welfare%20Guidance%20for%20Animals%20in%20Tourism%202019%20version.pdf
· Thai Embassy (Dili) – phrases: https://dili.thaiembassy.org/en/page/useful-phrases
Useful Thai for vegan travelers (copy/paste)
• I eat vegan / strict vegetarian: “ฉันทานอาหารเจ” (chăn thaan aa‑hăan jae)
• No fish sauce, please: “ไม่ใส่น้ำปลา” (mâi sài nám‑plaa)
• No oyster sauce: “ไม่ใส่ซอสหอยนางรม” (mâi sài sòt hŏy naang‑rom)
• No egg / no milk: “ไม่ใส่ไข่ / ไม่ใส่นม” (mâi sài khài / mâi sài nom)
• Thank you: “ขอบคุณครับ/ค่ะ” (khòp‑khun khráp/kâ)
• Delicious!: “อร่อยมาก” (à‑ròi mâak)
Travel with Vegan Gourmet Travel: our ethos
At Vegan Gourmet Travel, we combine upscale plant‑based dining with ethical, low‑impact travel. We research current facts, partner with responsible local operators, and craft itineraries that respect animals, people, and place. Expect thoughtful pacing, chef‑inspired meals, and meaningful context at historical sites.
• Vegan‑first planning: we pre‑screen menus and coach kitchens on ‘เจ’ standards (no fish sauce, no oyster sauce, no eggs or dairy).
• Ethics, not optics: we recommend observation‑only wildlife experiences—no riding, no bathing, no direct contact.
• Small groups, generous time: fewer stops, more depth
• Verified, current info: we update opening hours, fees, and transport right before each tour.
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